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Although you can winterize
your outboard yourself, most dealers will perform this service for
you at a very reasonable rate.
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Outboard Winterizing Tips are presented by Nissan Marine & Power
Products.
Nissan Marine is in no way responsible for any damages or injuries that
may occur as a result of this information.
It is highly recommended that only qualified outboard
technicians perform any type of work on your outboard.
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Home > Tech Talk >
Winterizing |
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Outboard Wintering Tips
To
help keep your engine in tip-top condition for years to
come, it is important that you “winterize” your
outboard for off-season storage. By winterizing your
outboard, you will help ensure that your outboard will
be ready to go at the start of next year's boating
season.
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Winterizing Your Outboard |
 Step
One |
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Thoroughly flush your engine with clean,
fresh water.
All Nissan outboards are water cooled; running your outboard without an
adequate source of cooling water will result in severe
damage to your outboard!
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Smaller
Horsepower Outboard (2hp through 6hp): |
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For our 4-stroke models 2hp-6hp and our
5hp 2-stroke models you can use the
optional flushing plug.
For
smaller outboards, you can also flush your
outboard by using a large bucket of water. Be sure
the bucket is large enough to completely cover the water
intake ports on the lower unit of the outboard. Also be
sure that the bucket is wide enough so that no part of
the motor will touch the sides/bottom of the bucket.
Securely mount your outboard on a sawhorse or some other
type of apparatus that will allow safe operation of your
outboard. |
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8
hp and up: |
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With
the
8-140 hp you can either use the optional flushing plug
which can be attached to a hose for flushing the engine
with fresh water or purchase a set of “ear muffs”
(available at your local marine dealer). This equipment
attaches to your garden hose and clamps on to your
outboard's lower unit, covering the water intake ports.
Turn the garden hose 1/2 to full before starting your
engine to get a good water flow without too much
pressure (to minimize air bubbles). |
Run
your outboard
at normal idle speed for 5-10 minutes to
allow the engine to warm up. It is best to
use a mixture of stabilized fuel with
fogging oil. (follow brand directions and be
sure 2-stroke pre-mix models have the
appropriate oil also in the fuel). Or, you
may remove the air box and spray fogging oil
through the carburetor/s throat(s) while
running the engine just before you shut it
down. This will cause excessive smoke and
ensure that all internal parts are
lubricated. If you plan to leave the
stabilized fuel in the tank (for short
seasonal periods-usually 3 months or less),
then be sure it is full to keep evaporation
and condensation to a minimum. Or you may
drain the fuel system completely for longer
periods (see step Two). Fuel quality
can be different in many areas. Check with
your local Marina or Dealer to have your
motor winterized, or see which procedure is
best in your area.
After
flushing the outboard, allow the water to completely
drain from the engine (see Step 2 before you shut off
your engine if you plan to "fog" your engine manually). Your outboard should be in a vertical
position for the water to completely drain. While you're
waiting for your engine to drain, wipe off any dirt,
grease, etc. from the exterior of the engine. |
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Step Two |
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If fogging the motor manually, disconnect
the fuel line at the motor and continue
running the motor until it runs out of gas.
It is extremely important to ensure that
the fuel system is completely drained.
If not completely drained, deposits
(gum, varnish, etc.) may form inside the
carburetor.
To
drain the fuel from the carburetor you can use one of
these techniques:
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As
the fuel begins to run out and the motor starts to
"die", choke the engine a little until the
RPMs pick back up. Continue choking the engine as
the engine starts to die out until the fuel supply
is finally exhausted. |
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-or- |
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Remove
the drain screw from the carburetor bowl and allow
all fuel to drain out. Replace the screw when
finished. Although this technique requires a bit
more effort than the first, it is recommended to use
this procedure to fully ensure that all fuel has
been removed from the carburetor. |
If you have fuel left in your tank, add
Fuel Stabilizer to it and fill the tank
to keep condensation and evaporation to a
minimum so that it can be used the following
season.
For carbureted 2-stroke motors:
If
your outboard is not an oil-injected model (i.e. you mix
your gas/oil manually), we highly recommend you do not
store the gasoline for extended periods of time. Over
time, the gas and oil will separate which will lead to a
lack of lubrication to your engine. |
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Step Three |
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Treat your outboard with “storage oil” (also
called “fogging oil”),
unless treated or sprayed as in Step 1.
Storage
oil comes in an aerosol spray can and is used to prevent
rust on the engine's cylinder, crankshaft, bearings,
pistons, etc. and can be purchased at most local marine
dealers. Follow the oil manufacturer's recommendation on
the amount of storage oil to use (generally about 2
ounces for each cylinder).
First,
remove the spark plug(s) and the stop switch lanyard
cord from your outboard. It is also a good idea to
disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs to
prevent accidental starting.
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Manual Start Outboards: |
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Slowly turn the engine over a few times using the pull
cord while spraying the storage oil into the spark plug
holes. |
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Electric Start Outboards: |
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Be sure you have water hooked up to your water intakes
before turning over your outboard to prevent damage to
your water pump. While spraying the storage oil into the
spark plug holes, turn the engine over in 5 second
bursts using your electric starter. Do not over
“crank” your engine or you could damage the electric
starter. |
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Step Four |
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Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft. Using a
wheel bearing grease (or something similar), thoroughly
grease the prop shaft and prop shaft threads.
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Step Five |
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Change the gear oil in the lower unit (step-by-step
instructions).
For 4-Stroke models you should also change
your crankcase oil to remove any acids and
moisture from the oil. |
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Step Six |
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Apply water resistant grease to all moving parts,
joints, bolts, nuts, and plastic fittings. |
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Step Seven |
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To help keep your factory finish looking new, apply a
light coat of oil (or spray lube) to the exterior. Or you can also wax
the exterior of your outboard using a high grade
automobile wax. |
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Step Eight |
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Store the engine vertically in a dry area.
If
you store your boat in the water there are several
schools of thoughts regarding whether you should store
your engine in or out of the water. There are advantages
and disadvantages of both ways and unfortunately there
is no one “correct” or “best” way. Numerous
factors such as temperature, salt/fresh water, algae
growth, corrosion, etc. must be taken into account when
deciding whether to leave your outboard in the water or
tilt it up out of the water.
To
find out which is “best” way we recommend you ask
your local marina, fellow boaters in your area, etc. how
they store their boat/outboard during the off-season.
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Factors
to keep in mind: |
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Storing
in water allows algae and corrosion to affect your
outboard. |
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Storing
out of the water could cause damage if the outside
temperature reaches freezing and there is water in
your lower unit. |
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If
you store your motor tilted up, we recommend you
remove your prop to decrease the temptation of
someone stealing your prop. |
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Storing
down in the salt water drastically increases the
potential for corrosion. |
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Battery
Storage |
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Step One
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Disconnect the battery cables and clean the battery
terminals using a wire brush.
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Step Two |
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Recharge the battery to full strength. You should also
recharge the battery once a month during the off-season
to prevent electrical discharge and degradation of the
electrolytes.
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Step Three |
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Clean the exterior of the battery.
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Step Four |
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Apply grease (Vaseline works nicely) to the battery
terminals.
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Step Five |
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Store your battery in a dry place. |
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